This mail coat bears the name of the man who commissioned it: Inal al-Ashraf (1318-1461), one of the Mamluk rulers who governed Egypt and Syria from 1250 until 1517.
The Mamluks were highly trained slaves who were brought to Egypt by the country’s previous rulers, the Ayyubids, and seized power for themselves when the opportunity arose.
‘They initiated an extraordinary political system,’ says Robinson. ‘To become a sultan you had to be a first-generation immigrant mercenary, so essentially you had to fight your way to the top.’
With ruthless cunning and determination, the Mamluks dominated the region for more than two centuries, resisting invasions from both Christians and Muslims before eventually succumbing to the Ottomans in 1517.
The mail coat, which shows minimal wear — although what wear there is indicates the habits of its owner — dates from the period before Inal al-Ashraf became sultan, when he was in the Mamluk military and a provincial viceroy in Cairo.
‘It is made of overlapping steel bars held together by chain mail, so it functions as a solid bit of steel when hit, but has the flexibility of a shirt,’ explains Robinson. ‘It prizes speed over power.’
It was almost certainly worn in combat and gives clues to Inal’s physiology. ‘It fits a man of about 6 ft 3 in, and the upper right panel has been rubbed down, suggesting he was right-handed,’ says Robinson.
The coat was held in the imperial armoury at the Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul until the 19th century, when Sultan Abdul-Aziz sold many of the country’s treasures.
When the mail coat was offered for sale at Christie’s, bidding was fierce, but eventually the Furusiyya Art Foundation, based in Vaduz, Lichtenstein, won out. In 2008, the coat featured in the touring exhibition The Arts of the Muslim Knight.
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