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Businessweek
Six Zero-Proof ‘Liquors’ That Taste Almost Like the Real
Thing
Thing
After tasting dozens of nonalcoholic spirits, we chose the
best.
best.
By Elizabeth G Dunn
September 17, 2020, 1:25 AM EDT
Forecasters expect Covid-19 to accelerate the decline of
booze consumption in the U.S. As fewer people visit bars, restaurants, and
sporting venues, retail purchases have increased, but overall intake has been
dropping.
booze consumption in the U.S. As fewer people visit bars, restaurants, and
sporting venues, retail purchases have increased, but overall intake has been
dropping.
The drinks industry is responding with an onslaught of
nonalcoholic spirits whose flavors evoke those found in traditional bottles.
Imagine a junipery, botanical bite of gin that mixes effortlessly into G&Ts
and greyhounds but without the buzz—or the hangover. Alongside these are
premixed canned mocktails, including a faux Negroni whose mix of juices and
spices mimics the rich punch of the classic. Sales of no-ABV spirits are
expected to more than double over the next five years, says the alcohol market
research company IWSR.
nonalcoholic spirits whose flavors evoke those found in traditional bottles.
Imagine a junipery, botanical bite of gin that mixes effortlessly into G&Ts
and greyhounds but without the buzz—or the hangover. Alongside these are
premixed canned mocktails, including a faux Negroni whose mix of juices and
spices mimics the rich punch of the classic. Sales of no-ABV spirits are
expected to more than double over the next five years, says the alcohol market
research company IWSR.
Quality, though, is inconsistent: Many are little more than
pricey, flavored water. We tasted our way through dozens of booze-free spirits
and cocktails released in the past five years so you wouldn’t have to. These
bottles stand out.
pricey, flavored water. We tasted our way through dozens of booze-free spirits
and cocktails released in the past five years so you wouldn’t have to. These
bottles stand out.
Monday Gin
In the zero‑proof‑alcohol
category, producers have generally focused on gin, which makes sense,
considering it’s one of the most popular, versatile, and easy-to-distill
spirits. For fans of the classic London Dry profile, Monday Gin is made in one
of California’s oldest distilleries and has a strong juniper backbone that
comes through, whether you’re mixing it with tonic or adding lime to craft a
gimlet. Citrus extracts add complexity and just a hint of bitterness. $40
category, producers have generally focused on gin, which makes sense,
considering it’s one of the most popular, versatile, and easy-to-distill
spirits. For fans of the classic London Dry profile, Monday Gin is made in one
of California’s oldest distilleries and has a strong juniper backbone that
comes through, whether you’re mixing it with tonic or adding lime to craft a
gimlet. Citrus extracts add complexity and just a hint of bitterness. $40
Ghia
The brainchild of marketing guru Melanie Masarin, formerly
of beauty upstart Glossier and the fast-casual chain Dig Inn, Ghia is an
aperitivo that draws on Gentian root, lemon balm, and elderflower to produce a
flavor that’s dry, complex, and pleasingly bitter—which helps it feel like an
adult beverage. Mix with grapefruit juice for a nonalcoholic greyhound, or make
a brisk “Sanghia” with equal parts Ghia, orange juice, and sparkling water. $33
of beauty upstart Glossier and the fast-casual chain Dig Inn, Ghia is an
aperitivo that draws on Gentian root, lemon balm, and elderflower to produce a
flavor that’s dry, complex, and pleasingly bitter—which helps it feel like an
adult beverage. Mix with grapefruit juice for a nonalcoholic greyhound, or make
a brisk “Sanghia” with equal parts Ghia, orange juice, and sparkling water. $33
Ritual Zero Proof
Chicago-based Ritual also makes zero‑ABV whiskey
and gin, but the best of its line is a faux tequila that brings together blue
agave flower, guava, and Mexican lime distillates in a softly smoky
formulation. Combined with lime juice and simple syrup, it manages to
slide convincingly into a classic margarita. For those inclined to do shots, a
liberal dose of chile pepper extract creates enough of a burn on the finish to
almost rival the real thing. $27
and gin, but the best of its line is a faux tequila that brings together blue
agave flower, guava, and Mexican lime distillates in a softly smoky
formulation. Combined with lime juice and simple syrup, it manages to
slide convincingly into a classic margarita. For those inclined to do shots, a
liberal dose of chile pepper extract creates enough of a burn on the finish to
almost rival the real thing. $27
Kin Spritz
The zero-proof beverages from Kin are packed with adaptogens and nootropics—mood-altering
herbal pharmaceuticals geared toward “elevating the spirit and relaxing the body.”
The brand’s ready-to-drink Spritz contains the herb Rhodiola rosea, believed to help balance stress, while amino acids
such as 5-HTP, citicoline, and tyrosine are said to support “social stamina.”
For a pretty pink canned drink, it has an unexpectedly earthy, bitter flavor.
$27 for four
herbal pharmaceuticals geared toward “elevating the spirit and relaxing the body.”
The brand’s ready-to-drink Spritz contains the herb Rhodiola rosea, believed to help balance stress, while amino acids
such as 5-HTP, citicoline, and tyrosine are said to support “social stamina.”
For a pretty pink canned drink, it has an unexpectedly earthy, bitter flavor.
$27 for four
Curious Elixirs
A lightly sparkling blend of organic juices, spices, herbs,
roots, and botanicals makes up the base for these pre-batched craft
mocktails, which have numbers for names. The formulations are loosely
inspired by classics: No. 2 takes its cues from a dark ’n’ stormy; No. 3 mimics
a cucumber Collins. We’re partial to No. 1, a pomegranate-based concoction
that’s similar to a Negroni—dry, rich, and slightly bitter. Add an orange
slice to complete the effect. $29 for four
roots, and botanicals makes up the base for these pre-batched craft
mocktails, which have numbers for names. The formulations are loosely
inspired by classics: No. 2 takes its cues from a dark ’n’ stormy; No. 3 mimics
a cucumber Collins. We’re partial to No. 1, a pomegranate-based concoction
that’s similar to a Negroni—dry, rich, and slightly bitter. Add an orange
slice to complete the effect. $29 for four
Wilderton Lustre
This Pacific Northwest ginlike spirit is created through vacuum
distilling, a lower-temperature process than conventional distillation.
Wilderton’s founders say this allows the flavors of bitter orange peel,
lavender, bergamot, and other botanicals to be preserved and carried over into
the bottling. Lustre’s clean citrus and honey flavors can get lost beneath
juices, syrups, or other overly sweet mixers, so mix it with a splash of
club soda or tonic. $33
distilling, a lower-temperature process than conventional distillation.
Wilderton’s founders say this allows the flavors of bitter orange peel,
lavender, bergamot, and other botanicals to be preserved and carried over into
the bottling. Lustre’s clean citrus and honey flavors can get lost beneath
juices, syrups, or other overly sweet mixers, so mix it with a splash of
club soda or tonic. $33
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